2019 Chinese Australian Hometown Heritage Tour
In March 2019, Sophie Couchman and I ran our third Chinese Australian Hometown Heritage Tour to Hong Kong and Guangdong.
The tour took us from Hong Kong to Jiangmen, Kaiping, Taishan, Xinhui, Zhongshan and Zhuhai, before returning to Hong Kong.
Here’s a rundown, in tweets, of what we got up to!
Once the tweets below have loaded, you can click on them to view the photos full size.
You can also have a look at:
- 2019 brochure
- 2019 glossary of place names in Chinese and English
Hong Kong: 6–8 March 2019
Day 1: Wednesday, 6 March 2019
Arrive Hong Kong
No tour activities were planned for today, but Sophie and I made a preparatory visit to the cemetery in Happy Valley to prepare for the next day’s walking tour.
The tour’s first two nights were spent in Hong Kong.
Despite the rain, this afternoon @sophiecouchman and I went searching for Australians in the Hong Kong Cemetery at Happy Valley. #soggyfeet pic.twitter.com/OqeGfYfgpL
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 6, 2019
As everyone on the tour flew into HK, despite the ominous weather, Kate and I visited HK cemetery to ensure path clear for walk the following day and to locate a few more Chinese Aust graves. Also looked in adjacent Catholic and Muslim cemeteries. Day1 #cahht19 #chinozhist pic.twitter.com/HVra7I2kE2
— Sophie Couchman (@sophiecouchman) March 10, 2019
Day 2: Thursday, 7 March 2019
Hong Kong
We started the tour proper with an introductory talk by Sophie and myself on the history of Hong Kong, the Pearl River Delta and their Australian connections.
After lunch we took everyone on a Chinese Australian heritage walking tour to King Yin Lei, a heritage-listed mansion, and the scenic Hong Kong Cemetery.
This evening was free for guests to enjoy the sights of Hong Kong at their leisure.
#cahht19 is about to begin! Starting off with an intro session this morning focusing on place and language. pic.twitter.com/L50TzJaT8n
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 7, 2019
We had a very, very wet walking tour of King Yin Lei mansion and the HK Colonial Cemetery this afternoon. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/1TCdFGkXyS
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 7, 2019
Tour started with a very very wet day but that didn’t put us off! Was terrific to be able to share grave sites of James Chue and Arthur Hang Gong significant to two of our tour members. King Yin Lei still magnificent in the rain, Day2 #cahht19 #chinozhist #wetfeet pic.twitter.com/MwLz5u7RiF
— Sophie Couchman (@sophiecouchman) March 10, 2019
Jiangmen: 8–9 March 2019
Day 3: Friday, 8 March 2019
Hong Kong – Jiangmen
After breakfast, we travelled by ferry (3 hours) to the river port city of Jiangmen in Guangdong, our first stop in mainland China. Jiangmen, or Kong Moon as it was known, is the historical heart of the See Yup (now Wuyi) district.
In Jiangmen, we visited Li Village, a village within the city, and the bilingual Wuyi Overseas Chinese Museum.
Overnight in Jiangmen.
Off we go to Jiangmen – by boat! #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/nw55FQAe8v
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 8, 2019
Three hours later, after a quick stop in Doumen, we’re in Jiangmen! #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/45zgwllhvZ
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 8, 2019
Our first village visit – Li Cun, in the middle of Jiangmen city. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/KLE99D5EOB
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 8, 2019
Visit to Li village, tucked in centre of Jiangmen city where we saw the lively ancestral hall of the See Clan – lots of mahjong and Chinese chess. Particularly special to visit hometown of previous #cahht17 tour members and also CAFHOV members. Day3 #cahht19 #chinozhist pic.twitter.com/ccQUrbKNvd
— Sophie Couchman (@sophiecouchman) March 10, 2019
Doorways in Li Cun, Jiangmen. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/g4qAhyO0Ia
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 8, 2019
In honour of #IWD here are some of the few Chinese women included in the Wuyi Overseas Chinese Museum in Jiangmen. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/V8D8oe2ox1
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 8, 2019
Exciting to see some Australian tools in the Wuyi Overseas Chinese Museum in Jiangmen. Donated by Chens from Xinhui. For more on such things see my blogpost! https://t.co/YQri9QNIdi #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/dNQllDhHQw
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 8, 2019
Kaiping: 9–12 March 2019
Day 4: Saturday, 9 March 2019
Jiangmen – Kaiping
This morning we explored the famous Kaiping diaolou (watchtowers) in beautiful Zili village.
Then we headed to Cangdong village, to learn about village culture and heritage with architectural historian Dr Selia Tan and her team from the Cangdong Heritage Education Centre. We shared a countryside lunch prepared by Cangdong locals and tried our hand at making traditional snacks, crafts and music.
The next three nights we stayed in Kaiping.
Our visit to Zili, World Heritage-listed village, coincided with many #IWD tour groups. They each got a cheongsam as part of their tour package. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/gaGudN6rIi
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
What we really went to Zili to see were the amazing villas and defensive towers, built by Fong family members with overseas money. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/BSw1YHuyH3
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
Visit to Zili village where we see how overseas wealth, social unrest and local creativity resulted in beautiful fortified villas and watchtowers. Followed by lunch, activities and tour provided by villagers in Cangdong village. Day4 #cahht19 #chinozhist pic.twitter.com/JmP4NUzktA
— Sophie Couchman (@sophiecouchman) March 10, 2019
What my photos can’t show are the smells and sounds of firecrackers as people baai saan 拜山 (pay respects to their ancestors) leading up to Qingming. #cahht19
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
Spending the afternoon at Dr Selia Jinhua Tan’s Heritage Education Centre at Cangdong village, Kaiping, starting with the most delicious lunch… #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/Fg4Cu7j6if
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
We’ve tried our hand at making some mugwort cakes 艾糍 ngaaih chih – in distinctive Australian shapes (they’re usually just round!) #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/8rRpiv8XRj
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
Paper flowers 紙花 ji fa are made to place on shrines as an offering (in place of fresh flowers). They are made from crepe paper and need to have 8 petals. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/MfJN0FvOXL
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
We are really getting to experience the ways that village architecture is designed to deal with the rain.「南方雨水多」#cahht19 pic.twitter.com/3KdlvOCAdg
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
We finished our afternoon in Cangdong listening to Cantonese folk music and trying the instruments ourselves. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/00LeL8mwkm
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 9, 2019
Day 5: Sunday, 10 March 2019
Kaiping
We spent the whole day around Cangdong, with lunch in a nearby local restaurant.
We learned about the conservation efforts of Dr Selia Tan and her team, including visits to the rebuilt village temple and restored ancestral halls.
We then enjoyed a relaxed afternoon in the village, with musical performances including the guqin and Cantonese Opera.
We eat extraordinarily well on #cahht19. Here, in 2 tweets, is today’s lunch at a local Tangkou restaurant, Dak Kee 德記: mixed steamed and fried fish, tofu, veggie noodles… pic.twitter.com/alD0nXus8e
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 10, 2019
…steamed pumpkin, sweet potato leaves, river prawns, hawthorn juice… (actually this lunch needs 3 tweets) #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/FzY5G8i65Q
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 10, 2019
…pipis, and roast pork (not photographed). #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/emv6JbNr3g
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 10, 2019
Some Sunday afternoon Lingnan culture 嶺南文化 – learning about, and listening to, guqin 古琴 music with Cangdong’s Jacky Tse. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/KfzzLDie3O
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 10, 2019
Every time I come back to Cangdong, there are new things to see. There are now 5 restored houses for student accommodation, and a new pavilion. Step by step, as they raise more funds. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/V2Uyuh4DDF
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 10, 2019
Our final treat at Cangdong is a Cantonese Opera performance by Kaiping’s best opera troupe – band includes a saxophone (introduced to Cantonese Opera in the the 1920/30s). #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/m20ZekZZTA
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 10, 2019
Some awesome sword action in the second half of the Cantonese Opera performance at Cangdong. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/NDGdPCQ8MA
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 10, 2019
Day 6: Monday, 11 March 2019
Kaiping
This morning we visited the magnificent Fengcai Tang, the ancestral hall of the Yu (Yee) clan, with Dr Selia Tan.
After lunch, we attempted to track down a particular village for Sophie, before we visited Baihe Pier – from where goods, people and bones came and went from overseas – and Majianglong, a World Heritage-listed diaolou village.
To finish the day we had a dinner of the local speciality – goose.
This morning Selia Tan and Mr Yu showed us around Fengcai Tang, the Yu/Yee ancestral hall in Dik Hoy/Dihai. Designed in collaboration with Italian architect and British engineers, built early 20th c., combines Western and Chinese styles. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/D2FErp0Gqa
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
Before lunch we went on an adventure to track down a particular Kaiping village for @sophiecouchman. In the local dialect Australia is pronounced ‘Or jiu’ (澳洲 Cantonese: Ou jau Mandarin: Aozhou) #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/0Z25R26C9b
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
We ate lunch of famous Bak Hap / Baihe dumplings, overlooked by Mr and Mrs Xi. Proprietor asked us to take a group photo in his restaurant. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/HYtQH8Y2mF
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
Doorways in Baihe, Kaiping, near the old pier for repatriating bones from overseas. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/0NCE76WGaK
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
Majianglong is a cluster of 5 villages – it has Australian connections and is also on the World Cultural Heritage list. Orderly ‘Overseas Chinese villages’ and impressive villas among the bamboo. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/RqKxqlejPo
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
What was perhaps the highlight of the day goes unphotographed. Forced to take a windy backroad by road closures, our bus driver navigated the bus through a narrow village gate on a curve in the road. Incredible skill, centimetres to spare! #cahht19
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
Dinner at ‘Goose City’ restaurant, Kaiping, 1 of 2: goose egg tofu with sweet chill sauce, and peppery fuh juk 腐竹 in soup… pic.twitter.com/ojuI2hi7Te
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
Dinner at ‘Goose City’ restaurant, Kaiping, 2 of 2: roast goose, eggplant and beans with black beans, and claypot rice with eel. Also lots of local foodstuffs to buy (tea, herbal tea, noodle, goose lap cheong 臘腸, etc). #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/7uSq757XGm
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 11, 2019
Day 7: Tuesday, 12 March 2019
Kaiping – Taishan
This morning we visited the shiny new Kaiping Museum.
In the afternoon, we explored a cluster of Australian Pan (Poon) family villages at Qiaotou and visited the market town of Yueshan, to indulge in a unique afternoon tea experience.
We then drove to Taishan where we would spent the next two nights.
This morning we’ve visited the new Kaiping Museum – the top floor has an exhibition on the history of Kaiping (featuring Sydney-born revolutionary Tse Tsan-tai), and there’s a gift shop featuring locally designed products and a coffee shop. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/M5Br5FOvTb
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 12, 2019
Before afternoon tea we visited Poon/Pan villages in Yueshan, Kaiping, including Zhaoyangli. These villages have connections to Australia (mostly western Victoria) dating from mid-19th century. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/gGOG4xxnAJ
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 12, 2019
Afternoon tea 三點三 in Yueshan town, Kaiping. Say no more. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/8CdtaECUvw
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 12, 2019
Doorways of Yueshan and Shuikou, Kaiping. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/Qy7RbIwkpL
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 12, 2019
Taishan: 12–14 March 2019
Day 8: Wednesday, 13 March 2019
Taishan
Guangdong is the home of dim sum, so we started today with a yum cha breakfast in Taicheng, the capital of Taishan, before visiting Meijia Dayuan (a historic market square), Haikou Pier, and the Silver Letter Museum.
After lunch, we enjoyed a free afternoon in Taicheng. Guests could follow our self-guided walking tour of the old town or go on their own adventure.
After yum cha, we headed to Meijia Dayuan in Dingjiang, Taishan. Former marketplace, set of Let The Bullets Fly, now tourist destination and source of local snacks. Also always cute puppies! #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/L4SdlXn5qK
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 13, 2019
Doorways in Meijia Dayuan, Dingjiang, Taishan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/WHIVnHK6aE
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 13, 2019
More doorways in Meijia Dayuan, Dingjiang, Taishan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/tMCdhpYRNe
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 13, 2019
The Silver Letter 銀信 Museum in Haikou, Taishan, was closed but we wandered around the display at the Haikou Pier. Includes a small display on Australia including Quong Tart (of course). Streetscape being renovated too. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/i5ukKhDR5D
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 13, 2019
It seems that finding a cool cafe has become @sophiecouchman and my Taicheng ritual. This time it’s Wei Plant Cafe in Caolang Street 草蓈街 near the No. 1 Kindergarten. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/JktOQBUy0H
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 13, 2019
Freshly painted facades on Zhengshi Street 正市街, Taicheng. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/50M2PGJ8Ez
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 13, 2019
Facades along Taixi Road 台西路, Taicheng, Taishan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/xjY7hzn12C
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 13, 2019
Xinhui and Zhongshan: 14–16 March 2019
Day 9: Thursday, 14 March 2019
Taishan – Xinhui – Zhongshan
We spent the day exploring ancestral villages of some well-known Chinese Australian merchant families.
In Xinhui we visited Wangchong village, home of merchant James Chen Ah Kew of Wahgunyah, followed by Zhuxiuyuan and Shachong in Zhongshan, the home villages of the Guo (Kwok) family of Wing On and the Ma (Mar) family of Sincere.
We enjoyed dinner at a famed local restaurant in Zhongshan.
Two nights in Zhongshan.
We’ve ventured to Xinhui county this morning to explore Wangchong, home of Riverina merchant Chen Ah Kew and his amazing missionary daughter Mary Yeung. There are 6 remaining diaolou. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/unvtaRqZe9
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 14, 2019
Doorways (and cats) in Wangchong, Yamen, Xinhui. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/Qp4a605GF3
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 14, 2019
Memorial to Ma Ying-piu and Ma family residences in Shachong village, Liangdu (South District), Zhongshan. I’d also like to remember MYP’s wife, Fok Hing-tong https://t.co/RGVmagl3Q7. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/kayQuY4mke
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 14, 2019
Doorways in Zhuxiuyuan, Zhongshan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/RwFlzoaQqX
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 14, 2019
Day 10: Friday, 15 March 2019
Zhongshan
Today we had the choice of taking it quietly or exploring the old town centre of Zhongshan, known as Shekki (Shiqi).
One popular route was to wander along historic Sunwen West Road and visit museums (including the excellent Xiangshan Commercial Culture Museum and the quirky China Radio Museum), a local temple and the Ming Dynasty Yandun Pagoda.
This evening we enjoyed a stroll through Sanxi village followed by dinner with a historic twist.
They’ve painted the Xiangshan Commercial Culture Museum an alarming shade of pink! But otherwise Sunwen West Road remains the same… #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/4M9CAuizmd
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 15, 2019
Doorways and arches, off Sunwen West Road, Zhongshan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/rEAgzySbxy
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 15, 2019
Leafy scenes in the laneways off Sunwen West Road, Zhongshan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/5VTU9KL5gE
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 15, 2019
Temple with Chairman Mao slogan and 1970s-era village family planning information, Sanxi, Zhongshan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/23sgrhfVvT
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 15, 2019
Leung 梁 Ancestral Hall turned village canteen, with scrubbed-out original decorations and later painting of Mao-era workers. Sanxi, Zhongshan. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/Pn7TXl3DMU
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 15, 2019
Also, think I might move in here… Sanxi is rather adprable, with restaurants, art studios and a micro-brewery. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/Q7lKwY36u7
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 15, 2019
Tonight’s dinner at Xijia 喜家 restaurant in Sanxi 三溪 was my favourite of the trip so far! Vegetarian dishes were pumpkin soup, potato curry, corn/peas/kidney beans/pine nuts, and two kinds of greens (tong hou 塘蒿 and water spinach 空心菜). #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/JmvkoDvBd5
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 15, 2019
Zhuhai: 16–17 March 2019
Day 11: Saturday, 16 March 2019
Zhongshan – Zhuhai
We visited the Museum of the Former Residence of Sun Yat-sen and the Zhongshan Folklore Culture Museum in Cuiheng village, before stopping at Waisha village to see restoration work that took place since our 2017 tour.
We had lunch and free time at the new Zhuhai Opera House, and then visited the Meixi Royal Stone Archways and house museum of Chinese Hawaiian merchant Chun Afong.
We celebrated our final night together with a farewell dinner overlooking the lights of Xiangzhou harbour.
Overnight in Zhuhai.
Great to revisit Waisha in Zhuhai (ancestral home of Choy family of the Sun Company 大新公司). Just wish @HowardW32831846 could have been with us! Two years ago the Choy ancestral hall and home were in disrepair. Our visit in 2017 precipitated their restoration. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/MQ07HsV9SK
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 16, 2019
Blue skies over the Zhuhai Opera House today. But never as blue as Australia. #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/JlxQMqWgaN
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 16, 2019
Last stop on #cahht19 was the home of Chen Afong and his mixed Chinese-Hawaiian family in Meixi, Zhuhai. His first wife was Chinese (3 kids) and his second wife Hawaiian (16 kids). Village has several family residences, ancestral hall, temple, watchtowers and stone archways. pic.twitter.com/tE2ClZeMTB
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 16, 2019
What better way to celebrate our last night in China than with a pre-dinner Chinese beer in an ‘Irish pub’ on the night before St Patrick’s Day? #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/NvKQTCujHq
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 16, 2019
Bling and beer galore at our #cahht19 farewell dinner at De Yue Fang near Yeli Island in Xiangzhou, Zhuhai. pic.twitter.com/MIMjcGW5b5
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 16, 2019
Day 12: Sunday, 17 March 2019
Zhuhai – Hong Kong
After a farewell breakfast, we transfered to Jiuzhou Wharf for our ferry to Hong Kong (1 hour), where the tour concluded.
We’ve said goodbye to our wonderful Chinese guide in Zhuhai, and are now heading back to Hong Kong on the ferry. No bridge for us (except out the window!). #cahht19 pic.twitter.com/cMSSUDAfz6
— Kate Bagnall 白碧 (@baibi) March 17, 2019